Frequently Asked Questions
  Home  | BP Care Sheet | Connecting and Familiar-izing | More About Me | My Gang | Pythons N Pals | Assorted Pics | Links | FAQ's | Red Tail Boa Care Sheet | Living Dead Dolls  


I usually get e mails asking my opinions on certain aspects of keeping and caring for Ball Pythons so I figured I would put the most questions I get asked. Remember, I am NOT an expert and these are just basic things I have done or tried to make my snakes feel more comfy and have a healthier environment. I am still working on this so there will be more added in future updates! If you have a question that might require a more detailed answer, e mail me: tuffcookie36@hotmail.com or check my message board located on the home page!!


QUESTION #1 "NEW BALL PYTHON WON'T EAT!!! WHAT DO I DO???

Almost 90% of baby BPs are born of wild caught females. The stress of dirty enclosures, improper heating, and air deliveries will cause poor eating habits and tick, mite, and internal parasite infestation. Take all new snakes to a good herp vet for a check up and let your snake settle into his new home for about a week. There are several methods you can use to try and get your snake to eat. The most common and most effective is putting your snake and the mouse in a cardboard box and closing it up. Usually the snake will take the mouse. They are night feeders, so try this after dark. If you notice any noticable weight loss or listlessness, then go back to the vet!! DON'T ever try force feeding your snake!! Only a vet should attempt this procedure.

QUESTION #2 "I THINK MY SNAKE HAS A RESPITORY INFECTION! HELP!!!"

The biggest sign of an URI (upper respitory infection) is a snake with a constantly open mouth, visible mucus in the mouth, bubbles when he breathes, and a "popping" noise in the throat. The only cure is a vet visit to provide antiobiotics to clear up the infection. In the meantime, raise the temperatures in the tank to about 90 degrees day and night and make sure the tank is clean and dry. This will ease some of the symptoms until you can get your snake to the vet. REMEMBER: your snake WILL NOT get better without the antibiotics. Medication is necessary for your snake to overcome this.

QUESTION #3 "MY SNAKE GOT OUT...HOW CAN I FIND HIM???"

If your snake has gotten out of his tank, don't be too alarmed. He will most likely find a warm dark place to curl up. Look in and around EVERYTHING! Behind dresser drawers, inside the drawers, under the bed, in closets, under clothes, look in and under the couch, under the stove and behind the fridge. If you still cannot find your snake, leave some flour or cornstarch around floorboards. If your snake moves around at night, hopefully you will see a "trail". Get a flashlight and look under everything. Since they are nocturnal, if he does come out it will be at night.

QUESTION #4 "HOW CAN I TELL IF MY SNAKE IS A MALE OR A FEMALE?"

There are several ways to determine the sex of your snake. One way is probing. Your vet will insert a probing tool into the snakes cloaca and the depth determines the sex. Males will have a depth of 8-15 subcaudel scales, and a female will have 2-4 scales. The tail is another indicator but not always accurate, especially if you do not have a male and a female to compare with. A male will have longer spurs, and the tail will be longer and wider than a female. Females DO have spurs, but they aren't as large as a males. The most accurate method would be "popping". This is where your vet will evert the hemipenes. If male, the hemipenes will be exposed and they look like little red "buttons". This should NOT be done by someone who has never done this before. There is risk of damaging your snakes hemipenes and tail.

QUESTION #5 "MY SNAKE ISN'T SHEDDING IN ONE PIECE. WHY???

Usually lack of, or low humidity levels will cause improper shedding in your snake. When you notice your snake is getting ready to shed (milky blue eyes), you can do a few things. One thing I do is, I mist the warm end of the tank and the walls with warm water (Use a squirt bottle) to help raise the humidity. Do this twice a day. If my snakes are out, I will mist them too although they don't always like that! Another method is making a humidity box for your snake. This is a tupperware container with a big enough hole cut into it and inside is filled with moss, or paper towels that have been dampened (NEVER dripping wet) with warm water. The snake will enter the humidity box when needed and this helps with their sheds. I have heard others just leave a pile of damp paper towels in the corner of the tank. The levels of humidity for a shed should be around 60%. Buy a humidity gauge and keep in your tank to better determine the levels in the tank.

QUESTION #6 "MY BALL PYTHON STOPPED EATING ALL OF A SUDDEN, WHY???

As adults, most Ball Pythons will go off feed during the winter months. This is normal and shouldn't bother your snake at all. The fall and winter are also the breeding months for Ball Pythons, so this is another reason why your snake might stop eating. Some go for a 3-4 months without eating, others 6-8 months. Your snake may still be active and can be handled when they are fasting. Some people try feeding their fasting Ball Pythons once a month, others every 2 weeks. If you do notice a rapid loss of weight and lethargy in your fasting snake, take him to a vet for a check up.

QUESTION #7 CAN I KEEP A BALL PYTHON AND A RED TAILED BOA IN THE SAME TANK???

No. These snakes are greatly different in size as adults. Also they both come from different countries and their climates are too different for them to be housed together. Red tails like a higher humidity than ball pythons, and you don't want to risk a BP getting scale rot or something of that nature. In my opinion, snakes in my care seem to do better being in separate tanks. Breeding or housing 2 snakes of the same species is fine, providing the tank is of adequate size to house them comfortably.






4923